new cattle - De-horning

LewisMoore · Post by **LewisMoore** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:59 pm

I have recently purchased 6 dexter cattle, 1 of which i think may be show quality, though is 8 months old. Is this to late to halter train?

If not any tips on how to go about it?

Also i am considering selling some cattle at melton this year, do cattle in the auction have to be halter trained?

Lewis Moore (aged 16)

LewisMoore · Post by **LewisMoore** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:01 pm

...don't know why i put de-horning as topic by the way (on the mind):p

Ted Neal · Post by **Ted Neal** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:00 pm

Hello Lewis
Second question first - when selling cattle you want to maximise the potential selling price and new buyers are looking for animals that are halter trained; especially if they don't have a crush - it makes handling easier. Prices are always lower for non-halter trained.
As to halter training, 8 months is fine. I always tie mine up and leave them tied - not on their own. I then create a stall with a couple of hurdles and a hurdle across the back as they pull back on the halter as far as they can. By tying you can touch the animal and get her used to you and your voice. Ad-lib hay or straw and offer water twice a day - if you leave a bucket there it will be overturned. After a few days try and let her out into a small space so she cannot get further away from you than the length of the halter. Initially do not try to lead her; but let her move around ahead of you and she will realise she cannot get far. Gradually increase the size of the area. Indoors is preferred at this stage. Gradually start to lead her; she will get the hang of this and after training give her a feed. When you want to let her out into a paddock - don't try on a halter as she will almost certainly pull the halter out of your hands. With the feeding she will come back into the shed for a feed. I have the theory that you can lose them twice - third time they know they can get away. If they are to be tied in warm weather don't forget to use a pour-on (Spot-on or Flypour). Good luck

LewisMoore · Post by **LewisMoore** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:46 pm

Hi ted, thanks for the advice. i have an animal already halter trained. you would suggest tying her and the new heifer up together?

justmalc · Post by **justmalc** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:11 pm

I think in the past all cattle sold at Melton have been halter trained with the exception of one small group. Ted's right that people often prefer halter trained animals.

I know that at York non trained animals are accepted. Personally I would probably put more through Melton if I didn't have to halter train them. If this appears to be a common view among potential sellers I will have a word with Melton market to see if they'll accept non halter trained animals this year. What does everyone think please?

Malcolm.

Edited By justmalc on 1208936295

natmadaboutdexters · Post by **natmadaboutdexters** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:11 pm

I will try this method myself Ted, as my present method is one of make it up as I go along and yours seems to be more patience and step by step! I have one very stubborn 7 mth old heifer that i am attempting to halter train at the moment and she is definitely in charge. She has got away from me once so only one more time until she wins. Good luck Lewis.
Natasha Lewis

Ted Neal · Post by **Ted Neal** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:39 pm

Hi Lewis
If you already have a halter-trained animal that is perfect to tie alongside as she will calm down the animal you are trying to train. I usually do that myself - normally a bull as I always feel he will benefit from an extra bit of handling.
If possible I like to loop the halter under a low bar (in my case under the feed barrier) this then prevents her from jumping up. Give me a call if that is not clear - 01763-208763
all the best

SueH · Post by **SueH** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:53 pm

Hi Lewis, I can see you have lots of advice to go on with. I have only trained dairy cows and a Dexter, but we generally start them by letting them first get used to having a halter on, just put it on and loop the ends around so it doesn’t drag then let the loose in a box or barn. When they are quite used to this, start tying them up, we never tie them directly to a solid structure to start with (wall or gate!!) but tie them to a loop of baler twine which is attached to the gate, then if they do take exception and thrash around it will break and they will not do themselves any damage. Once they stand quietly, then you can start leading them.
Hope this helps

Sue

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 6:20 pm

For halter training I always use a halter that has a metal ring on the under chin section. This lets the halter go slightly slack when the animal stops pulling against it.

Also remember that if you are trying to get the animal to move forward you should be stood alongside it, not infront pulling.